As locations for a film festival go, it is hard to imagine a better one than  Zanzibar. The name itself conjures up images of the hyper-exotic. And it does not disappoint.  Slowly pulling into the harbor on the ferry from Dar es Salaam, one is immediately enthralled by the uncommon beauty of the place. The clean, clear, aquamarine blue of the surrounding waters and the first glimpses one  catches of Stone Town. Stepping ashore – with the crush of humanity that greets the boat, consisting of porters seeking employment to unload the vessel, assorted hustlers with schemes and services designed to help you part with your money and sundry others – you know for sure that you are indeed in Africa. That is in case the picturesque beauty of the place had momentarily teleported you elsewhere. Welcome to Zanzibar.

Running between June 28th and July 13th, The Zanzibar International Film Festival – 5th Festival of the Dhow Countries (A dhow is a traditional Arab sea-going vessel which was and is still used for fishing and transporting goods and people around the region) includes film, music and performing arts, arts exhibits, seminars and workshops, as well as special programs for women and others for children. This is a truly large-scale cultural event that is spread all over the main island of Zanzibar and the nearby sister island of Pemba. The various events of this festival extend into the villages, to give locals a chance to partake of it.

The unique charm of this festival is, without a doubt, the venues hosting the events. Film screenings are held in the Ngome Kongwe (Old Fort), a huge stone structure built circa 1700 by Omani Arabs. It includes an impressive open-air amphitheatre – the site of most screenings. Another film venue is the almost-as-impressive Beit-el-Ajaib (House of Wonders) built in 1883 it was the home of the Zanzibar’s then Sultan. An outdoor stage set up in the sea-front Forodhani Gardens, is the venue for musical performances. When not used in this service, the locals use the Forodhani Gardens as an evening promenade, outdoor barbecue and meeting place. If you are ever in Zanzibar, you must make it a point to have dinner here. The assortment of local grilled seafood is uncommonly delectable.

Starved as they seemed to be for this type of entertainment, the Zanzibaris were quite appreciative of the artistic feast presented to them. They came out in numbers for film screenings and other performances. The opening night festivities – in keeping with Arab and Islamic theme of this year’s festival, featured the Al Urmawi Group from Palestine playing the oud (an Arab guitar). There was also the Islamic rhythmic chanting of the local Maulid ya Homu group. The film festival kicked into gear with a screening of Raoul Peck’s excellent political thriller, Lumumba. Eriq Ebouaney, who played Patrice Lumumba in this film, was in attendance.

The festival featured over 140 films of various genres. Included are documentaries, dramas, comedies, experimental films and films that defy easy categorization in long and short form. There are 47 films from 21 countries in 5 juried competition categories. While the professed theme of the festival is Arab and Islamic culture, I had difficulty discerning much thematic discipline. It seemed more a joyful hodge-podge than anything else. This is by no means a diss. HIV/AIDS is one theme that was rightfully stressed.

I was reminded time and again how differently people react to films. There was a particularly curious moment during the screening of Nick Hugh’s 100 Days, set as it was amidst the Rwanda genocide of 1994, when it seemed to me that sections of the audience were cheering a rape scene. A Swahili-speaking Tanzanian friend assured me that what I heard was not cheering. I am not entirely convinced.

Zanzibar is multi-ethnic, and the people are open and friendly. Part of the Island’s charm is its mix of people. Ali Mazrui often speaks of Africa’s “triple heritage”. There is probably no place in Africa where it is more on display than in Zanzibar. African, Arab and European influences are apparent in the style of clothing, food and architecture. One is awakened daily by the sound of muezzins calling the Moslem faithful to prayer. In Zanzibar’s case, one could probably add a fourth – Asian due to the influence of Indians who have traded and resided on the Island for centuries. The 5th Festival of the Dhow Countries was a veritable feast, an ambitious and well-executed festival set in an incomparable location.